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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.